If you’re looking to get off the beaten track in Croatia then I absolutely recommend you visit Istria. This northwest most region of Croatia, close to Slovenia and Italy is a world away from the likes of Split or Dubrovnik and if I’m being honest? It’s the most authentic region of Croatia that I’ve visited (and I spent a year and a half living in the country!)
Of course there are still popular and well-known destinations in Istria, such as Pula and Rovinj, but perhaps in your Istria research you’ve come across images of a village perched on the top of a green hill, often shrouded in cloud, surrounded by vineyards and with rambling cobbled streets. This is Motovun.
While Motovun might be one of the more well-known destinations in Istria, it’s still far less popular in the grand scheme of things compared to Dubrovnik, Split, Pula or Zagreb. Plus, most people tend to plan a beach holiday to Croatia, so being in-land means Motovun is certainly less busy than the popular coastal destinations.
All this to say, if you’re looking for quaint, rural villages, picturesque rolling green hills and landscapes that look straight out of a painting, you need to head to Motovun and this area of Central Istria.
Motovun, Croatia
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Why visit Motovun?
Often referred to as “Green Tuscany” you’d be forgiven for thinking this is rural Italy. With rolling green hills covered in vineyards, stone houses with terracotta roofs and roads lined with Cypress trees.
Motovun walls view
If you’ve visited Croatia before and love the charming old towns like those in Split, Dubrovnik or Sibenik, then Motovun is that but x1000! This quaint village is a maze of winding roads perched on a hilltop with incredible views of the surrounding valley - the location itself is so unique that it’s worth experiencing.
Motovun was originally a fortress city and dates back to the 13th and 14th centuries, making it an ideal place to visit in Istria to learn more about the history, culture and way of life.
Being so small, it’s also an easy day trip option either from the coast or if you’re passing through to somewhere further south. You could spend a half day here and see the main sites. But equally you could spend a day or two based here, enjoying the town, cycling or hiking the surrounding area and enjoying the slower pace of life.
That’s the main thing I love about Istria generally, the fast pace of mass tourism has not touched here like it has other parts of Croatia. Slow mornings, afternoons filled with food, evenings spent at konobas with friends eating and drinking, people are happy and satisfied here, their pace of life is slow and enjoyable and it’s easy to let this rub off on you - lean into the slower, more sustainable pace of living and exploring.
Motovun, Croatia
Is Motovun, Croatia worth visiting?
We visited Motovun in September and while there were a couple of smaller tour groups, we found the town to be charming, breathtakingly beautiful and full of visitors genuinely immersing themselves in the gastronomy, history or outdoor activities in the region - which I loved!
We found there was plenty to do there to fill an afternoon and if we had been on a cycling or hiking trip then we probably would have stayed longer to eat at one of the restaurants or stayed nearby to see the famous low fog that often hangs around the Motovun hilltop during the autumn.
Motovun Street
Motovun Town
How to get to Motovun
The best way to get to Motovun is by car. I recommend hiring a car to explore Istria as the public transport system is slow and not very extensive. So having your own car gives you the freedom and flexibility to go where you want and it’ll be quicker than waiting for public buses!
Motovun parking is a bit limited closer to the town. There is car parking along the main hill up to Motovun and there is also a larger Motovun car parking area at bottom of the hill (location here) which means you have to walk uphill around 15 minutes to get to the centre of the town itself. Parking costs 4 euros although it’s less in the winter months. There is also another car park at the top of the hill closer to the town if you want to save yourself the walk but it’s quite small and was already full when we got there in the mid afternoon.
Istria is also a great cycling destination, so if you’re planning a cycling holiday, you can base yourself in Pula or a smaller town or village and explore the area by bike.
If you’d prefer to have a tour with transport arranged for you, I would recommend checking out day trips from Pula such as this one, which takes you to Motovun.
OR this food tour which also includes a stop in Motovun.
Motovun, Croatia
Motovun Old Town
How long to spend in Motovun
As I mentioned above you can easily see the whole town in half a day. If you visit as part of a multi-stop tour, you’ll have plenty of time to get a feel for the town.
However you could easily spend a full day here enjoying the views, walking the walls, doing a distillery tasting, visiting the attractions and just wandering the cobbled streets.
If you’re stopping in Motovun as part of a cycling or hiking holiday, I’d recommend allowing yourself 2 hours to walk the walls and grab a bite to eat.
If you’re staying nearby then I’d probably return a couple of times to eat at some of the konobas and maybe see the town early in the morning at its most peaceful.
Motovun Mirna Valley
Best things to do in Motovun, Croatia
Walk the Motovun City Walls
Motovun Walls
Walking the city walls is one of the best things to do in Motovun because of the spectacular 360 degree views you get from Motovun’s location on the top of the hill.
Tickets cost 5 euros and can be purchased from the Tourism Information in the main square, opposite the Bell Tower or from the Wall Street Pub.
Take your time walking the walls and enjoy the views and historic walled gardens along the way.
Do a tasting at Aura Distillery
Aura Distillery
Aura is one of the most famous distilleries in the region and you’ll likely see their shops in other towns too.
They had free tastings available in the shop as well as plenty of souvenirs to buy including Istrian Teranino, brandy, gin, liqueurs, limoncello, olive oil, vinegar, jams and chocolate.
Visit St Stephen’s Church and Climb the Bell Tower
St. Stephens Church
The Church of St Stephen is easily located in the centre of Motovun and is worth a look inside.
For 4 euros you can climb the Bell Tower for incredible views of the Mirna Valley.
Have a locally brewed beer at the Wall Street Pub and Brewery
Wall Street Pub
If you’ve read any of my blog posts before, you’ll know that we always seek out a brewery. Why? They’re usually independent and locally owned, meaning you get a more authentic crowd in there and being locals, we often end up chatting and getting lots of local recommendations from them!
So imagine our joy when we discovered a microbrewery on the walls of Motovun!
We walked the walls clockwise so we exited the walls right by the Wall Street Pub which was a great way to reward ourselves after a (not very strenuous!) walk. While the pub has other beers and coffee available, they also have their own brewery beer Motovunsko beer!
We enjoyed a drink sitting right on the walls with incredible views - definitely one of the best brewery views and more authentic brewery locations we’ve visited!
Have a bite to eat with spectacular views
Motovun Restaurant
If you’re looking for a bite to eat in Motovun, you’ll find the best places to eat in Motovun with a view in Motovun are Konoba Fakin and Bistro Bar Montona.
We didn’t eat here but the views looked incredible and the prices were reasonable.
Pod Voltom konoba under the archway
If you’re looking for authentic places to visit in Motovun, or anywhere in Croatia for that matter, then you need to head to a konoba.
A konoba is like the Greek taverna, it’s a locally owned restaurant/pub with hearty homemade food which is usually hyper-local dishes and produce.
I spotted the Pod Voltom konoba under the archway as we walked into the central square and it looked so incredibly charming. It also offers outdoor seating too, similar to the ones I mentioned above.
Wander the beautiful streets of Motovun
Motovun Street
Motovun Street
Simply just wandering around and enjoying the ambiance is a must-do in Motovun.
With winding cobbled streets, washing hanging out across alleyways, cats snoozing on ancient stone walls and charming stone houses, churches and archways around every corner - this is such a photogenic city.
Off-roading experience
We were lucky enough to go on an epic off-roading adventure and a hiking trip with Martin from Saorsa Outdoors.
While I love hiking, going off-road in a Landrover Defender, ploughing through huge puddles and crawling up rocky trails was so much fun and a great way to see more of the Istrian countryside that isn’t as accessible by bike or foot.
Offroad Istria
Winery or vineyard tour
Located in the valley below Motovun is Tomaz Winery, a modern, sleek winery surrounded by fields of vineyards and has a beautiful panoramic tasting room for visitors to enjoy.
Contact them here to make a booking.
Vineyard in Istria
Summary: visiting Motovun in Croatia
I hope this quick Motovun travel guide has given you plenty of inspiration for what to see and do in Motovun, whether you’ve got a couple of hours to spare or a day or two!
I absolutely think Motovun is worth visiting on your Istria trip, it’s such a charmingly authentic and sleepy town with effortless views and spectacular surroundings.
