Zagreb is the capital of Croatia and yet Croatia is most famous for cities like Dubrovnik and Split along its stunning Adriatic coastline.
I lived in Croatia for over a year and made multiple trips to Zagreb (including the time we got snowed into Zagreb for 3 days and couldn’t get back to our home in Split on the coast!) and I think it’s the most underrated city in Croatia.
Don’t get me wrong, if you’re heading to Croatia for a beach holiday then you might want to skip Zagreb. But if you’ve got time to explore more of Croatia, or if you fancy a city break, a Christmas market trip (Zagreb has one of the best Christmas markets in Europe) or if you’re Interrailing and stopping in Zagreb, this 2 days in Zagreb itinerary is for you!
Exploring Zagreb Old Town
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Is Zagreb worth visiting?
The short answer is yes, if you aren’t on a beach holiday and if you have the time.
If you’re in Croatia for a beach trip then you’ll want to stay on the coast. However if you’re not a beach person, you prefer cities, you have a short weekend city break, you have longer to explore Croatia or you’re on a Croatia road trip, then I highly recommend visiting Zagreb.
Read more about why I think Zagreb is worth visiting here.
Zagreb Old Town
Zagreb Old Town
How to get to Zagreb?
Zagreb International Airport is the easiest way to get to Zagreb. Most major airports across Europe fly into Zagreb including from major hubs in Germany, the UK and Netherlands - which is helpful if you’re coming from outside of Europe and are flying into London, Frankfurt or Amsterdam.
When is the best time of year to visit Zagreb?
I would argue that Christmas is the best time to visit Zagreb.
Zagreb has one of the top Christmas markets in Europe (it was awarded best Christmas market in Europe 3 years in a row) and the city comes alive in the winter with multiple Advent markets, a huge ice rink, live music performances, street food and drink stalls. The festive atmosphere and possibility of snow made it one of the most festive places I’ve visited in Europe.
However most people will visit Croatia in the warmer months which is also undeniably a great time to visit the city too. Although it does get hot!
Zagreb is so different in culture, the people, the food and even the architecture compared to the cities on the coast and I think that contrast makes it a really interesting addition to a Croatia trip.
Zagreb at Christmas
Zagreb Cathedral view from Strossmayer at Christmas
How many days in Zagreb is enough?
Honestly I think seeing Zagreb in two days is plenty of time for a first time visitor to see the city. 3 days maybe if you’re including a day trip to Plitvice Waterfalls National Park or if you’re having a long weekend city break or visiting for the Christmas market.
What to do in Zagreb in 2 days
Day 1: Zagreb itinerary
Cognito Coffee
An institution in Zagreb! This Zagreb coffee company has two locations in the city and it’s a great way to start the day.
Croatian coffee culture is HUGE. While I’m used to having coffee on the go, Croatian coffee culture is all about sipping, enjoying and savouring coffee. At all times of year, people will sit outside coffee shops and spend time socialising with a coffee for hours, even at night coffee shops are still busy!
The coffee shop location on Varšavska ulica, is a great place to start your day before exploring the nearby old town. They also have breakfast pastries and snacks.
Take the Zagreb Funicular
After coffee, head to the nearby Zagreb Funicular railway / cable car which is a must do in Zagreb!
Claiming to be the shortest funicular ride in the world, this funicular connects Zagreb’s upper town and lower town in Zagreb and takes just 30 seconds to ride from bottom to top and vice versa. It only costs 66 cents to ride and you can honestly walk up the stairs next to it for free and quicker than the actual funicular (ha!)
But it’s all about the experience right!?
It’s up to you if you take the funicular but it’s fun to see and will get you to your next stop of the day: Strossmayer Promenade.
Zagreb funicular
Wander along Strossmayer Promenade and explore the Old Town
When you’re planning what to see in Zagreb in 2 days, this is a must - Strossmayer promenade is probably my favourite part of Zagreb.
With panoramic views across the city of Zagreb, this elevated pathway is a must for visitors and photographers! In the spring there are blossom trees, in the summer the sun makes the colourful buildings and rooftops even brighter, in autumn the autumn colours are stunning and in winter there are Christmas stalls, music and markets along here!
Enjoy the views and the walkway. Check out Lotrščak Tower, the art sculptures and walk easy along the path to the viewpoint of the Zagreb cathedral at the end.
Next to this viewpoint is a set of steps up to a square where a large amount of food vendors are for Christmas markets but there’s also a large outdoor cinema screen here for events in the summer. We also saw the World Cup football games projected on the screen here and Christmas performances.
Zagreb Old Town
Stone Gate - entrance to Old Town Zagreb
Strossmayer at Christmas
Visit Dolac Market
For those that love food markets in Europe, this extensive market is in Dolac Square with fresh produce including fruit, veg, meats, flowers and indoor vendors with products too.
It runs every day usually in the morning, so go before midday to see the hustle and bustle and vibrant colours of the fruit, veg and flowers!
Grab a bite at Melt gelato and brunch bar
If you need a stop to refuel, the nearby Melt restaurant on Pavla Radica Ulica is a brunch and gelato spot. If it’s summer, don’t miss the ice cream, if you need a refuel or the weather is chilly, their pancakes, avo toast and bagels are epic!
Visit the Museum of Broken Relationships
I’m not much of a traditional museum person, but I love a unique museum or a well-crafted storytelling or interactive museum - this has both!
This is a museum displaying seemingly unrelated, mundane items sent from people all over the world which represent a part of their relationship which has now ended and a brief description of what the item means or represented to them.
I love the personal nature of this, a random toy or book or a shoe that means nothing to anyone else but means so much to this person and what their relationship represented - it’s finding meaning in the mundane on such a personal level.
Some of the stories are hilarious, others are heartbreaking but it’s such a unique concept for a museum that I think it’s worth spending an hour or so exploring.
Check the opening hours here as they vary from season to season, tickets cost 7 euros.
See St Mark’s Church
Just up the road from the Museum of Broken Relationships is the famous Church of St Mark in St Mark’s Square.
When planning your trip, you’ve probably seen pictures of this striking church with a colourful tiled roof display. It dates from the 13th century and is a catholic church. Although it has been under construction the entire time I’ve lived in Croatia (and still is at the time of writing in early 2024) so the last time I saw it, it was covered in scaffolding! Whether you can go inside or not, it’s well worth seeing from the outside at least!
St Mark’s Church
Get Strukli for dinner
I only discovered this famous Croatian dish when I was in Zagreb and it’s basically my dream dish (despite being lactose intolerant!)
Strukli is a dough and cheese dish essentially. Made with a doughy filling which can be plain or a variety of flavours, it’s filled with a cottage cheese type filling and then topped with fresh cheese and you have the option of loads of toppings from savoury tomato, meats or vegetables. Or sweet versions of the dish with apples, honey, cinnamon, blueberries etc.
Head to La Struk in the old town for a comprehensive menu of savoury and sweet versions of this dish - you will be stuffed from a serving of this!
Tip: don’t eat it immediately, the cheese is extremely hot when it first comes out!
Strukli
Enjoy the views at OUT Rooftop
Close to the funicular is this great bar with a courtyard that’s decorated beautifully at Christmas time and in the summer their rooftop is open.
The rooftop is perfect for evening drinks overlooking the colourful old town!
Inside OUT (the rooftop was closed during winter)
Day 2: Zagreb itinerary
Korica and In the Yard for coffee
In the Yard is the second Cognito Coffee location so it’s up to you if you want to check it out or try somewhere different.
But I also recommend nearby Korica which is a cafe-bakery that has the best selection of pastries and artisan baked goods, plus coffee too. There’s plenty of seating and they have both savoury and sweet options. The cruffin (croissant muffin) is a personal favourite and they have great baguettes too.
The Yard at Christmas
Explore Trg Kralja Tomislava
Not far from Korica you can wander through Trg Kralja Tomislava which is a large park and square area, home to the striking yellow Art Pavillion (great for photos but currently under renovation so you can’t go inside).
In the winter this park is where the huge ice skating rink is set up and you can skate in a look around the fountain and in front of the Art Pavilion. It’s the biggest ice rink I’ve ever seen and really unique in that you skate around it like a track, rather than one big square of ice!
The ice rink
Picnic in Zrinjevac
Slightly north of Trg Tomislava is Zrinjevac park. I love the tall trees and the architecture of the buildings that line the park - it almost feels Parisien.
This park often has events such as market stalls or concerts on the gorgeous bandstand in the middle of the park. In the winter, it’s another area where a Christmas Market is set up and they have live music.
In the summer, it’s the perfect place to stroll, relax, read a book or picnic with friends.
Visit European Square and Trg bana Josipa Jelačića
Trg ban Josipa Jelačića is just a short walk again from Zrinjevac, closer to the Old Town where you were yesterday.
This is probably the most famous and central square in Zagreb, it’s a car-free zone with lots of bus and tram stops here as well as cafes and eateries. In the winter this is the centre of the Advent Market in Zagreb.
In the summer we saw more of the Football World Cup played on huge screens here so this is definitely the area of big crowd gatherings!
In the centre is the famous sculpture of Ban Josip Jelacic, who is considered a national hero for his military campaigns in the mid 1800s and for abolishing serfdom in Croatia.
A quick mention of Trg Europe which is right behind Trg bana Josipa Jelacica. Europe Square doesn’t have a lot happening and it’s much smaller but it’s another Zagreb Advent Christmas Market location and often has similar events too. It’s worth checking out if you’re walking up to the cathedral too, as it’s easily passed through as you walk up Upper Town Zagreb.
Trg bana Josipa Jelačića
Visit Mirogoj Cemetery
Perhaps a slightly morbid recommendation which isn’t for everyone but this is one of the most beautiful cemeteries I’ve ever seen.
You can take a bus here that takes 20 minutes from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, walking is 45 minutes or a 7 minute taxi ride (Uber works well in Croatia).
National Geographic called it one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world, thanks to the stunning architecture of the arcades and pavilions around the cemetery dating from the 1800s.
This isn’t a particularly old cemetery but being owned by the city (rather than the church), means there are lots of religious denominations buried here. This makes for a fascinating and beautiful mix of gravestones and tombs from Catholic, Protestant and LDS, to Muslim, Orthodox Jewish and non-religious burials.
The city was hit by a magnitude 5.5 earthquake in 2020 and the cemetery was one of the areas of the city which sustained significant damage, so there are still ongoing repair and restoration works.
It is a beautiful and unique place to visit in Zagreb but of course please be respectful of visiting the cemetery and those around you who might be visiting gravesides.
Mirogoj Cemetery
Dinner at Kai Street Food Bar
One of my favourite places to eat in Zagreb is Kai Street Food Bar.
They are tucked down an alleyway off Trg Bana Josipa Jelacica and they serve creative Asia fusion dishes that seasonally rotate depending on produce availability for the menu.
We had the most incredible Bao buns and Katsu Sando - don’t miss this spot if you like Asian food.
The team here is so lovely and we ended up having a great chat with them about Croatia.
Kai street food
Evening drinks and music at Bacchus Jazz Bar
Next to Trg Kralja Tomislava is this cool courtyard and jazz bar which has a stunning dark, moody cellar bar and courtyard. THe courtyard is hung with lamps and low hanging trees so it feels super cosy and hidden!
They have live jazz sessions usually on Fridays or you can check their Facebook page for other upcoming music events.
This is definitely more of a local spot, prices are pretty cheap and it’s always busy. Just bear in mind that this bar still allows smoking inside (as is common in a lot of Croatia still) so if that bothers you then you might prefer to sit outside.
Alternatively, if you’re more of a craft beer lover, I highly recommend visiting Garden Brewery, it’s about 15 minutes on the tram from the city centre (I prefer to just get an Uber) and they have a huge brewery with food stalls too. They specialise in experimental sour beers (my favourites) and stouts but have a HUGE beer list of every sort of beer you could possibly want to try and the vibe is always great!
Garden Brewery
Beers and blogging
Where to stay in Zagreb
I’m a creature of habit and almost all the times we visited, we stayed at the Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria. It’s located one street back from Trg Kralja Tomislava so the location is perfect for walking around the city but almost being one street back from the square means it’s a much quieter street and we were never disrupted by noise. They also have limited car parking spaces so make sure you request one when you book.
For proximity to the airport, I’ve also stayed at Mövenpick Zagreb Hotel and Best Western Airport Stella.
I’ve also stayed at The Loop Hotel which is a bit further out from the city centre, but located close to a tram so it’s only around 15 minutes to reach the Old Town area. We stayed here because we needed free parking for our car. The hotel is industrial, minimal style, very nice, clean and modern but I didn’t love the location - if you only plan to visit Zagreb in 2 days then I’d go with a closer location.
Given the choice, I would pick Doma Zagreb ApartHotel over Loop Hotel as the vibe and price is similar but Doma Zagreb is much closer and within walking distance of the old town.
Hotel Le Premier and Esplanade Zagreb Hotel are two other great options within the city centre so the location and amenities are amazing!
Summary: two days in Zagreb travel guide
I hope this Zagreb travel blog has given you plenty of inspiration for what to see and do in Zagreb. It really is an underrated city and I do highly recommend visiting the Christmas markets too, especially if you’ve covered popular places like Germany and France and are looking for an alternative!
Zagreb has a lot to offer and is so different from the coastal cities which is why I always loved visiting as the contrast was so fun after spending so long living on the coast!
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